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Dirty, sacred rivers -- The real poop: how rivers become sewers -- Delhi's Yamuna -- Melting ice rivers -- The shrinking third Pole -- In the valley of Dhunge Dhara -- Melamchi River blues -- More river blues -- Belji of Dhulikhel -- The sorrows of Bihar -- The Koshi's revenge -- The engineers -- The Garland -- Susu -- Beyond barrages and boundaries.